Process

• Upper Clicking: Uppers are hand-clicked using size- and width-specific patterns. Each panel is strategically cut from the hide to optimize grain orientation and structural integrity. This ensures aesthetic consistency across the pair while maximizing the yield of premium leather by informed, manual selection rather than automated die-cutting.
• Hand-Skiving: All edges and counters undergo manual skiving. By tapering the leather thickness by hand, bulk is eliminated at the seams. This step is essential for achieving a flush fit against the last and a streamlined internal profile that prevents pressure points.
• Internal Stiffeners: We use heavy-duty leather heel counters and toe puffs. These components are hand-fitted and skived to ensure they mold precisely to the last. These leather stiffeners adapt to the wearer’s foot over time while maintaining the boot’s intended silhouette.

We use a high-tension lasting process to ensure the leather is properly seated and memory-set to the last. Lining layers help retain every curve and shape.

• Insole Foundation: We use a 10-11oz vegetable-tanned leather lasting board to allow the foot to create a permanent impression over time.
• Underfoot Cushion: The cavity between the insole and midsole is filled with cork to provide a thermal barrier and additional compression as the boot breaks in.
• Vegetable-Tanned Support: We use hand-skived, vegetable-tanned counters for heel stability and flexible 11-oz midsoles for support and longevity.

We use a hybrid stitching method to maximize the bond between the upper, the internals, and the sole.

• McKay: The entire shoe is stitched inside through the lasting board, quarters, vamp lining, and midsole. This creates a secure, low-profile internal attachment that prevents shifting over years of wearor in the event of glue failure.
• Stitchdown: The forefoot is stitched down twice for redundant strength. It is first stitched through the vamp and midsole, then stitched a second time through the vamp, midsole, and outsole. This two-stage stitching process means the boot can be resoled without having to replace the midsole or vamp.

The interface between the boot and the ground is an important part of comfort and stability. A well-trimmed, sturdy outsole gives confidence without getting in the way.

• Sole Attachment: Outsoles are bonded and then stitched through the midsole. This dual-attachment method prevents delamination under heavy use.
• Edge Finishing: Sole edges are trimmed and finished to a smooth profile. We do not use heavy acrylic paints; we finish edges to allow the natural grain of the leather midsole to remain visible.