GMTO: Service Boot & Low Quarter in Color 8 CXL

For our next GMTO, we're doing something a little different.

This marks the first time we've offered the exact same makeup in both a boot and a shoe. You get the choice between two classic silhouettes: the Service Boot and the Low Quarter.

Built from Horween Color 8 Chromexcel® and paired with the legendary Vibram 100 Montagna Lug Sole and Heel, both models share the same materials, finishing details, and overall design philosophy. The only question is how you prefer to wear it.

The Leather

At the heart of this makeup is Horween Color 8 Chromexcel®, Horween's historic leather and one of the most recognizable shades in American footwear. Rich burgundy over dark tan, this leather will darken and burnish in all the right ways as it tells the story of your ownership.

Like all Chromexcel®, it is generously infused with oils and waxes, producing the depth, pull-up, and natural variation that have made it a favorite among bootmakers and enthusiasts for generations. It's about time we put it to use. 

Boot or Shoe?

One of the things that excites us most about this GMTO is the opportunity to see the same makeup expressed through two distinct silhouettes.

The Service Boot provides a timeless profile rooted in military footwear, equally at home with denim, fatigues, or more refined casual wear.

The Low Quarter carries the same makeup in a lower-cut silhouette and is finished with black piping to go with black eyelets and outsole stitching, adding subtle contrast and real refinement while complementing the darker undertones hidden within Color 8.

Because the leather, sole, and finishing details remain identical, the choice ultimately comes down to how you prefer to wear your footwear. We've never offered a GMTO this way before, and we're excited to see which direction folks take.

The Sole

Underneath both models sits the legendary Vibram 100 Montagna Lug Sole and Heel, "the sole that conquered Mt. Everest." Originally developed for mountaineering, its iconic Carrarmato tread pattern became one of the most recognizable outsole designs ever produced and remains a benchmark for durability and traction today.

Part of the inspiration for this choice comes from our travels to Japan over the past several years. We noticed a lot of footwear with massive soles, but we were particularly taken with Mary Janes paired with shit-kicking heels (like these from T.U.K.).

We thought the Vibram 100 Motagna captured that same surprise spirit perfectly. Finished with black edge dressing, the sole gives both models a grounded, cohesive appearance while allowing the richness of the leather to remain the focal point.

Why We Chose This Combination

This makeup is an intersection of our influences. Militaria coopted. Authority subverted. Acceptability flouted. A rejection of the standard use case.

The Service Boot traces its lineage to military footwear. The Low Quarter draws from classic utilitarian shoe designs. The Vibram 100 originates in the world of mountaineering. Bringing those elements together in Horween Color 8 Chromexcel® creates something that feels both familiar and unexpected, resulting in a makeup that feels equally at home on city streets, in mosh pits, and up well-traveled back roads.

GMTO Details

• Pattern: Service Boot or Low Quarter
• Last: 1942 Last
• Leather: Horween Color 8 Chromexcel®
• Construction: Stitchdown
• Toe: Toe stiffener
• Midsole: Wickett & Craig vegetable-tanned leather
• Outsole: Vibram 100 Lug Sole and Heel
• Internals: Hermann Oak vegetable-tanned leather
• Hardware: Black
• Thread: Burgundy
• Outsole Stitching: Black
• Laces: Black 3/16-Inch Flat Waxed-Cotton Laces
• Expected Delivery: January 2027

We're excited to offer both silhouettes side-by-side for the first time and look forward to seeing how the community interprets the same makeup through two distinctly different forms. This GMTO will go live on Thursday, September 10, and close on September 24.